Benchside Sessions
Benchside Sessions is our fly tying series highlighting the patterns that we — as guides and shop staff — actually rely on day in and day out on the water. Every fly featured in this series is tied by someone on our team, chosen because it flat-out works. No fluff, no filler — just the flies we trust when it matters.
Materials
| Hook | 90-degree jig hook — #10–4 |
| Thread | Veevus 6/0 — Black |
| Bead | Hareline Plummeting Tungsten — 1/8" (3.3mm) |
| Pin | Hareline Balanced Fly Pin |
| Dubbing | Spawn UV Dubbing — Bleeding Black |
| Tail | Marabou — Black (optional: Krystal Flash or Flashabou) |
Step-by-Step Instructions
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(Optional) Clip the point of the pin off with wire cutters, then run the cut edge over a small file. If you skip this step, be mindful of the pin point while wrapping your thread so you don’t accidentally cut it.
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Slide the bead onto the hook. Positioning the countersunk part of the bead flush with the pinhead is more secure, though it probably doesn’t make much practical difference.
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Secure the thread to the hook, then tie down the pin with the bead attached. Make sure it’s tight and secure.
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Tie in the marabou tail up to the base of the pin and build up as evenly as possible.
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Work the thread to the back of the hook and tie in a dubbing loop, then bring the thread up to the bead.
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Take a small clump of dubbing and work it with your fingers by pulling it apart and stacking it so the fiber ends are relatively even — the dubbing shuffle. Dab the dubbing loop with a bit of wax, then add an even layer of dubbing so the fibers are trapped at the midpoint and spread evenly down the loop.
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Twist the dubbing loop, then wrap forward with loosely touching wraps up to the bead. Tie off with securing wraps of thread and whip finish.
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Brush out the dubbing body with a dubbing brush or a piece of Velcro. Start gently, but work to free any trapped fibers.
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Remove the fly from the vise and test the balance point by putting the point of your whip finisher, bodkin, or another pin through the eye of the hook to see how the fly rides.
About the Balanced Leech
Balanced leeches are one of my go-to patterns for stillwater trout fishing, and I always keep multiple sizes and colors in my lake box. The tricky part about tying them is finding the right balance point — it usually takes a few tries. The balance point depends mostly on how far your bead is from the eye of the hook and the size of your tail, but this also makes it easy to tie different sized flies on the same hook size. For a bigger fly, add more tail material and move the bead farther from the eye; do the opposite for smaller flies. This is also a great pattern to practice dubbing loops on. Don’t be afraid to experiment with colors like Olive & Claret, or swap in a hot orange or pink bead.
When it comes to fishing this fly, I only ever fish it under an indicator on still water — usually as the bottom fly on a tag rig to help get smaller flies in the zone. I like to attach it with a loop knot, and depending on the body of water, I usually start with the leech about 3–4 feet from my indicator and slowly go deeper until I find where the fish are holding. I also like to let it sit under the indicator for quite a long time after casting out, especially if there’s a breeze and some chop. When I’m finally ready to recast, I’ll slowly strip the fly back in with a small pause between each strip. Some people swear by them in rivers dead-drifted under an indicator — worth a try — but I have other flies I prefer for moving water. Regardless, they’re quick to tie once you get the hang of it, and every stillwater box should have a few sizes and colors.
Watch the full tying tutorial on our YouTube channel:
🎥 Fly Fishing Unfiltered on YouTube
About the Fly Tyer: Zack Borcher
Zack Borcher is an NWFFO staff member who has been fly fishing for decades and is a professional fly tyer, using his skills to fund his passion for the sport.